BIPOC Designer Guide Issue 2
January 2, 2024 — Guides
By Nana K. Twumasi (@fiftyfootroman)
In 2021, we brought you a handy dandy guide to a plethora of BIPOC designers. But that was a millennia ago! In issue 2, we’re shouting out another crop of fashion talent from across cultures; whether you want to spend a lot or a little; if you’re going out or chilling out. Special shout out to In Todo, whose curated craft fair supports BIPOC-owned indie brands and inspired many of the selections on this list.
Nigerian born, Canadian-dwelling Ogechukwu Ajibe founded her namesake brand, Oge Ajibe, in 2018. Having dreamed of establishing a brand, she initially focused on event wear but 2020 and the COVID-19 pandemic made her realize she needed to “adapt and evolve” (as so many of us did!), so she went back to the drawing board and relaunched with easy, every day, ready-to-wear pieces. Oge Ajibe is a joyful brand; proudly Black-owned, size-inclusive, and sustainably produced.
Looking for basics that are anything but? Taylor Jay has the goods for you. Elevate your work-from-home wardrobe with Jay’s easy, yet sumptuous and stylish designs that can truly take you from your desk to dinner (even if you use the same table for both!). The designer’s philosophy is based in utility; hers is “clothing that will stand the test of time and will seamlessly integrate into our lifestyle.” Speaking from experience, Jay’s offerings are delicious to wear—it’s a wonder how anything can be so soft yet so sophisticated.
The Africa Fashion exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum in NYC has closed, but if you were lucky enough to see it, Busayo’s designs will feel familiar, deeply rooted as they are in Nigerian—Yoruba, specifically--traditions. Using adire, a Yoruban fabric dyeing technique, gives the designer the ability to create truly unique prints and patterns. Playing with color and structure, Busayo’s offerings are showstoppers with high collars and puff sleeves and tiers and fringe.
If you don’t have one of Marion Maynor’s pieced quilted sweatshirts, what are you even doing? It looks like the designer is phasing them out, in keeping with the brand’s hand-made, small batch, philosophy—so, you better get moving. Black Border’s eye-catching, hyper-modern yet functional designs are the epitome of afrofuturism. Based in Atlanta, Maynor’s mission is to “serve the needs of marginalized communities through inclusive design, social responsibility, and accessibility.” All their offerings are gender neutral and made-to-order, meaning customization is available. Most notably, Black Borders has implemented a sliding-scale payment policy, to support marginalized individuals who need financial flexibility.
Born out of designer Natalie Harris’s eponymous blog, The Tiny Closet is a must for every casual but professional dresser who needs to look good on camera and then slide on over to the couch when the meeting ends to get some actual work done. Harris’s small batch, limited designs are classic, timeless, and extremely wearable for a range of occasions. Pro tip: this coat + this dress = fabulous.
Keeping sustainability and ethical production as one of her priorities, designer Kristina Lacson McConnico had a storied career in fashion before establishing her own brand, imbued with her family history—she comes from a line of dressmakers and designers. Perhaps best known for her wear everywhere Cora sweatshirt, McConnico has built Lacson Ravello into a go-to place for effortless, well-made designs that appeal to those who know that functional clothing doesn’t have to be boring.
Since they hit the shoe scene hard in 2015, you’re probably familiar with Zou Xou. Founder Katherine Theobalds believes sensible shoes are “comfortable, practical, and long-lasting;” if you’ve ever owned a pair of her shoes, you know this to be true. Intentionally eschewing automation for hand crafting, each pair is lovingly constructed in Argentina, in a process that reduces overproduction and waste. Like most of the other brands featured here, sustainability and equity are cornerstones of the brand’s mission. Your feet deserve these mules. And maybe even these boots.
Co-founded by Adele Tetangco and Alnea Nabos, both indie fashion heavyweights on their own (Tetangco co-founded Garmentory; Nabos Toit Volant), et Tigre’s designs are sophisticated but not stuffy. The word that comes to mind is “fun!” Their offerings range (currently) from oversized basics to (one-shoulder dresses that work for any occasion and for all shapes andsizes; and of course, the brand is known for its popular Jayme dress. Love a mix-and-match appeal? This is the place for you.
Have you ever been window shopping online and come across a piece that makes your breath catch, just a little? Kaarem’s clothing has that effect. There’s beauty and simplicity, and the Vietnam-born brand (they are also based in NYC and Santa Barbara, CA) leans hard into this motto. Creating swirling, pleated designs that still enhance the body, these pieces are perfect for making an understated statement. It’s well worth the splurge.
Let’s take it back to the motherland and catch up with Kayadua. This Ghanaian-based brand branched out into clothing production in 2021, with incredible results. Designer Eyiwaa Agyekumhene’s designs are made for people who want to have fun with their clothing; the colors pop and shapes swing. The vibe is reminiscent of the work of Derrick Boateng (ahem: also Ghanaian). Made by hand, to order, Kayadua’s spirit is so joyful you can’t help but smile.